With his Gastromap, Lukáš Hejlík has been crisscrossing the Czech Republic for twelve years, from the largest cities to the most remote corners. What has changed during that time? Which regions in Czechia do we unnecessarily overlook, in his opinion? And where would he take a Gault&Millau inspector for breakfast, lunch, and dinner? In this interview, he speaks openly, with insight and his typical passion for good restaurants.
Lukáš, Gault&Millau has only been operating in Czechia for a year, while Gastromap is celebrating its 12th anniversary this year. What has changed most in the Czech gastronomy over such a long period of time?
One thing? Some kind of icebreaker? It's hard to say. I feel that Czech gastronomy is steadily growing stronger and its individual entities are inspiring each other, which is natural. Lots of people are fulfilling their dream of owning their own café or pub, and some of them eventually realize that it wasn't such a good idea after all. I see our role in highlighting good examples to serve as motivation for others.
One of Gault&Millau's key tasks is discovering new talents. Where would you take us to find them?
I could mention Fame pizzeria in Střítež by Jihlava. In my opinion, they make perhaps the best Neapolitan pizza in Czechia. Who would have thought, here, next to a tiny chapel in a village in the Vysočina region? It helps that the D1 motorway is nearby, but it still seems like a total fluke to me. And then there are places I love and talk about for a long time – for example, Panelka in Luleč. When someone brave and a little cheeky appears in a region, someone who isn't afraid to stick their neck out, it makes me happy. There are already a lot of such names, and more are being added constantly. However, I don't dare to say exactly whether someone has already been discovered or not.
Speaking of regions, both Gault&Millau guide and the Gastromap describe all regions of the Czech Republic. Which one do you think is the most underrated and deserves a better chance?
I think it's the Moravian-Silesian Region. Many people perceive it as the end of the world and have no idea that it's actually full of interesting places. But there are even less explored areas in Czechia. For example, central Bohemia – some areas there are great, while in others you simply can't find anything. My biggest blind spot on the map is the Pilsen Region, apart from the its capital, and Mariánské Lázně or the Šumava area. The development of an area from a gastronomic point of view is very often kick-started by cafés. I feel that they are often the first seed that sprouts, awakens interest in a place, and inspires others to try something more. And then interesting things start to happen—like in Šumperk, Tábor, or now in Břeclav, which I can hardly keep up with.
Are you discovering Břeclav?
Who would have thought it? It's not a particularly beautiful city. But a lot is starting to happen there. So there are still regions that have something to offer. On the other hand, development potential tends to be where purchasing power is. It's still true that doing business in the center of Prague is different from doing business on the outskirts, and completely different from doing business in the region. Every place has its own rules. But it's possible.
You already touched on this a bit, however, which establishment "at the end of the world" appealed to you most and why?
I mentioned Panelka in Luleč. There are definitely also wild café windows or stalls. Or, conversely, when someone comes to the region with precise pastry-making skills. For example, Jana Novotná from Epifany Patisserie, which is one of the most beautiful establishments in Czechia. I think its running cannot make sense from the economy point of view, but it's beautiful. By the way, Jana takes care of four children.
If a Gault&Millau inspector came from France, where would you take him/her for breakfast, lunch, and dinner?
Probably to Eggo in Brno, which, after all, is listed in your POPs, right?
Yes, it is. What about lunch?
Something youthful, as I like to call it. I would take them to the restaurant U Kalendů – so he can get a taste of Czech cuisine, but also its very natural twist. I would like them to try something really cool. And then maybe I would take them to Papilio – if it's supposed to be that kind of „opera“.
Did you use any guides when you first started creating the Gastromap?
Of course. I was inspired by Pavel Maurer's tips, I followed Klára Donáthová and the Euro week magazine yearbook. I also browsed social media, because at that time tips didn't come in such an extent. I researched what people give their likes to. Now it's much easier.
Nowadays, businesses approach you themselves, right?
Yes, they do. And my followers send me tips, too. That's how I get 80% of all my tips. But the beginnings were magical. I wrote down everything I learned from social media because I didn't know where and when I would end up. And without my notes, of which I have about three thousand, I would forget everything.
Have you ever had a bad discovery? A tip that didn't work out?
Absolutely. Now I try to judge how relevant a tip is right away. Looking at user photos on Google helps me, for example, because it can happen that a restaurant publishes staged photos, but the reality looks quite different. User photos, on the other hand, don't embellish anything, and if I see croquettes or garnishes in the pictures, I just don't go to the place.