Karlovy Vary Region: The Grandeur of Pupp, Romantic Lookout Towers, and a Priceless Reliquary.

Karlovy Vary Region: The Grandeur of Pupp, Romantic Lookout Towers, and a Priceless Reliquary.

Magazine

June 18, 2025

Translated by ChatGPT.

Discover the regions of Czechia with Gault&Millau — not just through gastronomy.

The Karlovy Vary Region is the westernmost part of our country. It’s an area that combines post-industrial rawness, the silence of deep forests, spa-town elegance, and cultural vibrancy, but it also faces challenges such as socially excluded areas, the absence of a university, and insufficient transportation infrastructure.

Since Karlovy Vary will soon come alive with its renowned film festival—Europe's second oldest of its kind after Venice—we’ll primarily focus on the regional capital and its surroundings.

On the Road to Karlovy Vary

To begin, let’s acknowledge that the route from Prague to Karlovy Vary doesn’t offer many gastronomic stops. However, not far from the capital, you can exit the D6 highway at Exit 12, either north or south. Heading north, you’ll reach Velké Přítočno on the outskirts of Kladno. There, Café & Bistro Při Točně offers visually and tastefully delightful brunches, soups, salads, coffee, and desserts.

Heading south takes you to Vila Botanika, a restaurant located within a golf resort of the same name. The picturesque setting on the edge of the Křivoklát Forests adds a romantic touch, and the courteous staff will likely recommend their specialty—steaks and other dishes from house-aged meat. Recommended dishes include buffalo mozzarella with confit tomatoes, flank steak, rump steak, and grilled vegetables.

The Icon of Karlovy Vary: Grandhotel Pupp

The gastronomic crown of Karlovy Vary is undoubtedly Grandhotel Pupp. Its iconic structure at the end of the spa promenade along the Teplá River is magnetic, drawing attention with its rich history, elegance, and unmistakable grandeur.

Inside the award-winning hotel (recognized by Amazing Places), you can dine in two restaurants. Both have nearly identical menus and were awarded 13/20 (two toques) by Gault&Millau inspectors this year. Note the smart casual dress code—shorts, sports shoes, or hoodies won’t suit the regal blue-white-gold interiors.

Both the Grandrestaurant and the Malá Dvorana impress with their historical halls, neo-Baroque decorations, a majestic crystal chandelier, and large photographs of movie stars who have stayed there—all complementing a fine dining experience.

Inspector-recommended dishes include glazed endive with beetroot, whipped goat cheese and pine nuts, beef carpaccio with asparagus emulsion and onion marmalade, chicken ballotine with chanterelles, classic Czech svíčková, and a custard tart with blueberry sauce.

Don’t miss the original Pupp cake—a recipe passed down (with slight tweaks) since the 18th century. This dessert features a moist sponge cake with coconut, almond flour, and orange zest, layered with apricot marmalade and coated in dark chocolate. Vanilla whipped cream with apricot “caviar” rounds out the harmony.

After a stellar dinner, stay put for cocktails—Becher’s Bar inside Pupp is among the best in the country. Sit in a leather armchair and let a bartender in a white jacket mix you a drink from a menu themed around life’s “firsts.” Wonder what your first kiss, first LEGO set, or first paycheck might taste like? Only Becher’s Bar can answer that. A newly opened speakeasy within it, named Splendid, adds a Bond-themed touch—reservations are required, and the entrance is secret. The menu and mood pay homage to Casino Royale, parts of which were filmed in the hotel itself.

France, London, and Artisan Coffee

Across the river from Pupp is the Embassy Hotel with a richly historic restaurant. Guests are seated in one of four rooms: Dutch (decorated with carved clocks and murals), Raven (inspired by traditional Cheb folk architecture), Falcon's Nest (featuring branch reliefs), and Dragon’s Cave (a former stable with paintings, ironwork, and a knightly throne).

The kitchen draws from local recipes using high-quality ingredients, resulting in delicious food. Expect duck, schnitzel, trout, eel, sweet dumplings, or fried apples. Worth trying are the spicy zucchini tartare, excellent tenderloin steak, and caramelized strawberries with green pepper.

For French cuisine lovers, Le Marché is a must-visit in Karlovy Vary—an unforgettable experience. The riverside garden is perfect for romantic dinners or family celebrations. Head Chef Jan Krajč’s menu changes daily, so you’ll always be pleasantly surprised. Expect truffles, terrines, rillettes, foie gras, and fresh oysters.

Gault&Millau inspectors (who awarded Le Marché two toques) recommend the well-presented pork rillettes, beef filet with light truffle gnocchi and truffles in a champagne sauce, and house-made strawberry sorbet for dessert.

On the opposite end of town near Elizabeth’s Spa, Charleston Restaurant evokes the spirit of old England. The interiors, made to order in London, channel the era of the Charleston dance from the 1920s–30s. The focus here is steaks. Gault&Millau gave it one toque, highlighting the tender lamb shank, pork loin carpaccio, and duroc pork steak.

Nearby are two breakfast cafés worth visiting: Lékárna by City Roasters and PINKIEZ Espresso Bar. Both focus on specialty coffee and sweet or savory breakfasts—from avo toast and scrambled eggs on bread to artisan croissants.

For a fancy lunch, try Fresh Bistro, which offers burgers and wraps alongside a varied daily menu. Enjoy meat roulades, salads, sweet buns with cream, curry rice, or pulled pork.

Into the Forest for a View

Had enough food, film, and spa glitz? Get a new perspective—literally. Hike the hills for iconic views of the city and beyond. Near the century-old Diana Lookout Tower are a butterfly house and mini-zoo. If hiking isn’t your thing, take the historic funicular from downtown.

Jelení skok (Deer Leap) offers perhaps the most romantic view of the city and includes a 19th-century chamois statue, a local symbol. Also worth mentioning is Goethe’s Lookout, reached via a 3 km educational trail. The surrounding landscape abounds in scenic paths, gazebos, and rock formations.

Museum lovers should explore the Moser Glassworks exhibit or the Becherovka Museum—ending in a tasting, of course. The Mattoni Mineral Water Museum is located near the production plant in Kyselka. Nearby in a park-like setting, enjoy a snack at the Café Duha food truck, known for its meatloaf-in-a-bun specialty.

A real historical gem lies just 30 minutes from Karlovy Vary: Bečov Castle houses the Reliquary of St. Maurus, a breathtaking 13th-century artifact. It’s considered the second most valuable treasure in the Czech Republic after the Crown Jewels.

And no trip is complete without a castle—Karlovarsko boasts Loket Castle, featuring an exhibit on medieval torture and even a meteorite likely discovered in the 15th century.

The Most Demanding Culinary Competition Comes to Karlovy Vary

Yes, Karlovy Vary is also diving deep into culinary prestige this year. In just a few days, Grandhotel Pupp will host the Czech national round of Bocuse d’Or, the world’s most prestigious and demanding cooking competition.

Three participants were selected by a panel of top Czech chefs. Each contestant, along with their team, must prepare two hot dishes in front of a live audience within 5 hours and 35 minutes. The technical and international tasting juries will evaluate flavor, presentation, originality, ingredient handling, cleanliness, and time management.

On June 30, Vojtěch Petržela, Dominik Unčovský, and Štěpán Zouzal will compete for the coveted title.

 

 

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