Translated by ChatGPT.
Water, water everywhere... It’s no wonder the area around South Bohemian Třeboň is called the “Landscape of Double Skies” – for centuries, its surface has been covered by hundreds of ponds that mirror the sky back toward the heights. Endless water fun, ancient alleys providing shady shelter from the midday sun, the aroma of fish delicacies from restaurant gardens, and historical monuments – that’s the true summer vibe one finds in the south of Bohemia.
Around the World Journey
Fish farming has a strong tradition in the region, peaking in the 16th century when pond systems were designed and built under the supervision of the Rožmberk regent Jakub Krčín. His works include the largest (South) Bohemian pond, Rožmberk, and also the seventh largest, Svět, which forms the southern border of Třeboň’s town area.
This is likely the only place where you can literally take a journey around the World on foot. The educational trail is 12 kilometers long, taking a few hours to walk, and introduces you to the history of this famous pond. The rest of the day invites relaxation on one of Svět’s beaches or perhaps a visit to the impressive neo-Gothic tomb of the Schwarzenberg family, where the embalmed bodies of family members rest in 26 coffins.
If you head to Třeboň in mid-July, don’t miss the historical festivities of Jakub Krčín. This year, they fall on Friday, July 18, and Saturday, July 19. You’ll see fencing duels, medieval and Renaissance dances, jugglers, falconers, and a final nighttime torchlight parade.
When hunger strikes, give fish a try. Many restaurants offer them on the menu, boasting freshness and local origin. Leading the way is the now-legendary restaurant Šupina, awarded 14 out of 20 points and two toques by Gault&Millau this year. It’s located in a narrow alley of the old town near the Nové Hrady gate, in the shadow of the town walls that separate it from Svět’s dam.
Take a seat on the covered terrace or in the cozy interior with booths divided by wooden partitions and decorated with fishing nets. It was right here that the original carp fries were created, made from carp fillet and a blend of spices following a secret family recipe. You can enjoy them either as a starter with warm mushroom-dill sauce or as a main course with salad.
From the menu, which includes both permanent and weekly options, we also recommend smoked eel with tomatoes, delicately complemented by dill sauce, marinated char with herb panna cotta and chips, or wels catfish served on roasted cabbage with a fine sheep cheese sauce and potato dumplings.
Šupina is simply a must-visit for all lovers of fish specialties. But even those may eventually tire you. In that case, Třeboň offers an alternative – the Vratislavský dům restaurant. In a stylish interior full of wood, chef Petr Němec’s team serves seasonal menus focused on modern interpretations of Czech cuisine, local ingredients, and dry-aged meats.
Gault&Millau inspectors recommend the well-balanced and delicate South Bohemian kulajda with chanterelles, egg, and fresh dill, as well as tender beef neck with mashed potatoes and pickled vegetables, where all the flavors delightfully combine and complement each other. For dessert, try the plum dumpling with preserves, plums, and cinnamon ice cream.
The Dílna bistro also focuses on honest Czech cuisine, as well as fast food or desserts. It’s made from quality ingredients, and parents will appreciate the small children’s playground too.
The South Bohemian Windsor
Fans of fairy-tale romance should not skip Hluboká Castle while exploring South Bohemia. It’s one of the most attractive landmarks in the country, with many calling it the most beautiful Czech castle.
The inspiration for the romantic reconstruction of this Schwarzenberg residence in the mid-19th century was the famous English Windsor. The grand halls, wood-panelled and adorned with paintings by European masters, collections of silver and tapestries, and the castle kitchen exhibition are all breathtaking. South Bohemia truly offers a wide selection of castles. Among them are the Renaissance Kratochvíle with its characteristic rectangular water moat or Červená Lhota, situated on an island within a castle lake.
On the way from Hluboká to České Budějovice, you can stop for a swim at Bezdrev, the second largest Czech pond. In the regional capital, several gastronomic spots are worth a visit.
Brio restaurant, located near the historic center, offers a menu of Czech, Italian, and French favorites: beef broth, pasta, beef cheeks in red wine with mashed potatoes and marinated root vegetables, and perfectly prepared panna cotta.
You can also enjoy delightful bistro experiences in three establishments listed in the Gault&Millau Pop category. Bouda Burgers is a burger place boasting an unusual specialty – a made-to-order burger cake weighing one and a half kilos – along with several mac and cheese variations and pinsa, a Roman-style pizza alternative.
A piece of classic England comes to Budějovice through the Born in London bistro café. Here, you can savor eggs, burgers, porridge, omelets, soups, fish and chips, ganoush, cheddar, hummus, and pulled meats. You can read The Times or The Guardian and enjoy a traditional afternoon tea with sandwiches and pastries.
The Na lžíci bistro, just a few dozen meters from the famous Black Tower, offers a daily menu with three main dishes, including vegetarian, gluten-free, and lactose-free options. Naturally, they also serve specialty coffee, just like the popular Café Datel café bar. And if you stay in the center of Budějovice into the late hours, it’s definitely worth stopping by for a delicious drink at the Poetic Cocktail Bar Žlutá Ponorka.
Sauerkraut Soup with Ibérico Cracklings
It would be a pity to leave the region without visiting Český Krumlov, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992. Yes, during the season it can be quite crowded – after all, around a million tourists visit every year. But especially the first visit to this historic town is truly magical – the preserved ancient spirit of the place is genuinely unique. The charm of the medieval alleys winding inside the Vltava River’s meander is hard to describe – it must be experienced.
You can eat very well here, too. The two-toque Le Jardin restaurant at the Bellevue Hotel stands out for its tasteful and noble atmosphere. From the menu, our inspectors recommend trying the original take on classic sauerkraut soup enriched with Ibérico cracklings, fried sauerkraut, potato crumble, and fermented cabbage dust. This traditionally winter soup has a fresh summer touch and surprises with its inventiveness. Also noteworthy is the perfectly prepared cauliflower served with apple and celery demi-glace, parmesan crumble, chimichurri, and mustard caviar – one of the top-rated vegetarian dishes.
A staple in the historical center of Český Krumlov is Papa’s Living Restaurant. This venue deliberately avoids modern gastronomic trends and changes. The offer includes typical Czech cuisine, fresh pasta, steaks, and pizza. We recommend beef ribs in dark beer, Margherita pizza, and pike-perch fillet on tomato risotto.