September 1, 2026
What happens when Czech avant-garde cuisine meets Japanese izakaya? At Prague restaurant ZEM, the answer is not simply a fusion of two cuisines. The concept is rooted in an attempt to find a common language between two culinary traditions that may seem worlds apart at first glance. Yet, according to Executive Chef Libor Kristofčák, both share a respect for ingredients, craftsmanship, tradition and bold flavours.
Two Personalities, One Place
ZEM describes its concept as a “split personality”. One side represents Czech avant-garde cuisine, the other Japanese izakaya. These are not two separate worlds that happen to meet on a single menu. “The idea behind the concept is to give guests the opportunity to experience two distinct culinary cultures in one place,” explains Kristofčák. What connects them, he says, is an emphasis on bold flavours, fresh, high-quality ingredients and respect for tradition.
In the Czech part of the menu, ZEM works with traditional recipes, giving them a more contemporary interpretation. “We preserve their essence and familiar flavours, but present them in a way that reflects the expectations of today’s guests,” says the chef.
The other half of the concept is Japanese izakaya – an informal style of dining typical of Japanese establishments, where smaller dishes are shared at the table and guests gradually explore a variety of different flavours. ZEM seeks to preserve its authentic character, offering guests not only its distinctive flavours but also its atmosphere and way of dining.
Sharing is an important part of the concept as a whole. According to Kristofčák, izakaya is not just about what is on the plate, but also about the way people come together around it. “It’s not just about the food, but about the rhythm of the evening. Sharing encourages conversation, movement around the table and openness to new flavours.” And this is perhaps where the two worlds come together more naturally than one might expect. Czech cuisine has its own culture of communal dining, just as Japanese izakaya does. At ZEM, the two approaches come together in a more informal style of dining.
And What Exactly Is Czech Avant-Garde Cuisine?
“For us, an avant-garde approach means not being afraid to look at traditional Czech dishes differently. We respect their history and original flavours, but look for new techniques, presentation styles and combinations that offer guests an unexpected perspective on familiar recipes. Our goal is not to change tradition for the sake of it, but to show that classic Czech cuisine can also be modern, creative and surprising,” says Kristofčák.
His own relationship with this style of cooking began long before he started working at ZEM Prague. He grew up in central Slovakia, where cooking with fresh ingredients from the garden was a natural part of everyday life. “That’s where I developed a deep appreciation for quality ingredients and respect for honest craftsmanship,” he recalls. “My mother and grandmother could turn simple ingredients into exceptional dishes, and that approach still influences me today.”
An important part of his professional journey was also his experience in Scotland. There, Kristofčák worked in a small bistro connected to an organic farm, and his daily contact with seasonal ingredients had a significant influence on the way he approaches menu creation. “It taught me how to create menus that work in harmony with nature and make the most of what each season has to offer,” he says.
Seasonality is therefore one of the fundamental principles at ZEM. The menu changes approximately every two months, depending on what is currently available. “At the same time, we keep several signature dishes that are an integral part of Czech cuisine and are not dictated by the seasons. These include dishes such as goulash and pork belly. They form a permanent foundation of the menu, and guests are happy to return to them regardless of the time of year.”
And that is precisely why, for him, neither avant-garde cuisine, izakaya nor seasonality represents a limitation. “With a strong team, quality ingredients and a clear vision, these principles become a constant source of inspiration,” he adds.
How Can Czech Cuisine Be Inspired by Japanese Izakaya?
According to Kristofčák, bringing Czech and Japanese cuisine together has another interesting effect: it allows us to look at Czech food from a slightly different perspective.
“I think one of the greatest sources of inspiration can be the lightness of the dishes. Czech gastronomy has traditionally been built around rich and hearty food, while Japanese cuisine can offer an equally intense flavour experience in a lighter, fresher form.
You can see this particularly well in sauces. They play an important role in both cuisines and are packed with flavour, but while Czech sauces tend to be rich and substantial, Japanese cuisine works with lighter broths, citrus, fermented ingredients and umami. The result is dishes that feel fresher and allow the quality of the ingredients themselves to shine through.
That emphasis on simplicity, balance of flavours and respect for ingredients is, in my view, something Japanese izakaya can offer as a lasting source of inspiration for Czech gastronomy.”
When Cooking Meets Fire and Steam
ZEM’s culinary concept is not defined solely by what appears on the plate. The kitchen itself, built around charcoal and steam, is an important part of the experience.
“Fire has always been one of the fundamental elements of gastronomy, and it still has an irreplaceable role in our kitchen today. Cooking over charcoal gives dishes a distinctive flavour, a subtle smoky aroma and a sense of naturalness that cannot be replicated by other techniques. This is particularly true of meat and fish, where grilling over charcoal can enhance their natural flavour and elevate the dish as a whole.
Steam is equally important to us, helping to preserve the juiciness, delicacy and purity of flavour of individual ingredients. The combination of fire and steam allows us to work with different textures and create balanced dishes.
Beyond flavour itself, there is also the experience. The sight of an open fire, the aroma of grilling and the energy of the kitchen create a certain sense of theatre, turning a meal into not only a gastronomic but also a sensory experience,” says Kristofčák.
It’s About More Than Just Food
And ultimately, the experience is just as important to Kristofčák as the food itself. In his view, gastronomy should not end with what the guest receives on the plate.
“Above all, I would like our guests to leave happy, with a smile on their face and the feeling that they have experienced something special. Gastronomy, in my opinion, should not be only about the food itself, but also about the emotions, atmosphere and memories that people take home with them.
I’m always delighted when food sparks curiosity in our guests – when it makes them think about the flavours, the ingredients used or the story behind each dish. If we can inspire guests to think about food a little differently while genuinely enjoying it, then we have achieved our goal,” concludes Libor Kristofčák.
Perhaps that is ultimately what the “split personality” of ZEM is all about. It is not about deciding whether the restaurant is Czech or Japanese, traditional or avant-garde. Rather, it is about taking something familiar, adding a different perspective, and discovering where that new combination can take you.
